How does a perfumer turn a fragrance concept into a finished perfume? Why are many months required to bring a new fragrance to life? This description of the fragrance creation process is written from the artisan point of view since that is what I know best, but the steps are similar whether done on a large…
Concern has been growing over the last few years that natural perfumery oils could be regulated out of existence because natural oils are complex mixtures of aroma chemicals and often contain chemicals that are limited by safety rules. A recent Perfumer & Flavorist article about a possible new way to safety test natural ingredients caught my eye, partly…
Have you dreamed of creating your own perfume brand? Or wondered what keeps artisan perfumers busy behind the scenes? Maybe you have taken classes and developed some formulas, and now your friends say that they want to buy your fragrances. Should perfumery remain a hobby or should you take it to the next level? I often receive emails from people who request advice about…
I was one of four artisan perfumers interviewed for a post on Cafleurebon about creating rose accords. You might enjoy reading about that topic, and as of this posting you still have time to enter their drawing. I enjoyed being included with Elise Pearlstine of Tambela Perfumes, Maggie Mahboubian of Lalun Naturals, and Jane Cate of Wing…
If you have just recently discovered the world of niche and artisan fragrance offerings online, you might feel a bit overwhelmed. The internet has encouraged an explosion of options, from large niche lines that are sold worldwide via specialty boutiques to small artisan lines like mine that are sold through brand websites. Here are some…
For those interested in perfumery and essential oils, Dr. Robert Pappas has made his video series “The Chemistry of Essential Oils” available for free on youtube. He also maintains a free database at EOU (Essential Oil University) with information about the chemical constituents in many essential oils.
I’m making progress on all fronts here (dishwasher installation is in progress at this moment, I’m researching medical insurance, we’re hosting some family visits etc). I’m working on Amber Incense in my spare moments. I’m very appreciative to see that Robin included Incense Pure on her fall 2014 incense list yesterday along with some other…
Reports are coming out that the EU has decided, at least for now, to continue to allow the low atranol version of oakmoss and tree moss while only banning moss that has not had the allergens atranol and chloroatranol reduced. Most perfumers (myself included) already switched to the low atranol version of oakmoss years ago…
The European Commission is accepting comments about restrictions and labeling of allergens in perfume. The following link takes you to a post that provides more information and gives the email and snail mail addresses for public comment. This is your chance to make your voice heard. Mark Behnke wrote a very interesting blog post on…
First I wanted to say thank you to Ida for her lovely review of Ambre Noir on Fragrantica yesterday! I’ve heard from a number of people over the years that they like to use Ambre Noir as a layering fragrance, which makes sense to me. I’m still testing the new floral scent and tinkering a…
Today I’m talking with Dabney Rose, a fellow perfumer, a gardener/distiller extraordinaire, and a wonderful example of an indie artisan staying true to her vision and ideals. She is a life-long plant lover and currently has a custom greenhouse at her home that holds an amazing array of beautiful flowering plants from which she extracts…
Today I’m talking with someone who has worked in many segments of the fragrance industry: Miriam Vareldzis of 40 Notes Perfume. She has worked as a fragrance evaluator for major companies, has started her own indie perfume line, and currently also works for an outstanding natural ingredient supplier. Miriam has been interviewed by Cafleurebon and…
Several articles have been published recently about a relatively new technology for creating perfumery ingredients (as well as flavorings and some drugs); yeast, fungi, and bacteria can be genetically altered so that they synthesize perfumery ingredients such as vanillin. Although the yeast is a GMO substance, the ingredient it synthesizes is not GMO and is…
I am frequently asked what types of classes and schools are available to learn about perfumery. I decided to post about this topic since it seems to be of interest, and now I can refer to this post whenever I’m asked the question in the future. I learned perfumery on my own through self-study and…
Since I have time on my break, I decided to start a little tincturing project with New Zealand beach-collected ambergris. I bought a couple of pieces, two grams each, and I purchased an automatic stirrer to run a few hours each day. It will take quite a few months (2-6) before I’ll know if I…
I’m still on break but wanted to check in. My left arm is not back into action yet. That will teach me not to try to get large items down from over my head in the supply closet… I do feel progress, but it’s slow. I needed a lightweight laptop and a back-up to my…
I receive questions from time to time about how the scents are bottled, so I thought I’d describe the process a little bit. My method is probably similar to that of many other small indie perfumers. As orders come in, I bottle the scents at the time of order. I offer so many bottle sizes…
IFRA North America has produced an educational video The Story of Fragrances that features interviews with perfumers about their work. Christophe Laudamiel’s segments are especially interesting and capture his passion for the art.
Here is a great drawing for those of you who want to learn more about natural perfumery. Ayala of Ayala Moriel Parfums is holding a drawing for a copy of her Foundation In Natural Perfumery Handbook. I know some of you are playing around with blending, and this could be a big help to you….
There were several panel discussions at Elements Showcase today, and there will be several more tomorrow. One panel today was based on a new Robertet rose petal distillation that several perfumers used to build new perfumes. After Robertet explained their rose distillation, the perfumers discussed their creation process. Avery Gilbert, scent scientist, was there and…