Checking in…

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I’ve been filling 17 ml bottles to send to Meredith at Sweet Anthem to restock her supplies. I’ve also been filling lots of holiday orders.

I think the formula for cocoa sandalwood is done, and I’m just wearing spiced citrus vetiver to decide if it is done. I’ve not had as much time as I wanted to test, but I’m trying to finish. I will put samples up as soon as I can, but I will plan the official launch to be in January.

Victoria posted a nice discussion today on Bois de Jasmin about the proposed new EU regulations on perfume ingredients. Given the direction we are headed, I really wonder how many more years I will be able to do this. I hope it is not too late to stop the momentum in this direction. The ingredient restrictions are just not making sense.

And I need to say thank you to Sigrun for the lovely review of Voile de Violette!

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  1. Excited to try all these things.

    One question: are you necessarily bound by EU regulations? As an american perfumer, compounding on and selling from US soil, surely you have free license to do whatever you like? Surely the regs only affect say Chanel and Guerlain or any house that compounds and sells on both sides of the atlantic? Since your whole operation is stateside, aren’t the regs, sorry, “recommendations”, frankly moot? I heard that Providence Perfume’s Moss Gown is richer in oakmoss than EU regs would allow, but that they can in effect do what they like.

  2. Hi Claude! That’s a great question and one that I see asked frequently. IFRA created a set of rules that governs allowable ingredient levels for anyone who belongs to IFRA worldwide. In addition to the IFRA rules, there are rules for those who do business in the EU, and those specify a list of allergens that must be disclosed on the label if contained at over a tiny fraction of a percent. So there are multiple governing bodies and multiple sets of rules (and yet more rules for packaging).

    Most of the fragrance industry belongs to IFRA and must comply with IFRA standards. Most indies, myself included, do not belong to IFRA and do not have to follow their rules. In practice though, you are taking a risk if you don’t follow IFRA guidelines. If you want to be covered by product liability insurance, you are expected to follow the generally accepted standards of the industry, and it is easy for insurance companies to argue that IFRA is a generally accepted standard.

    As far as the EU rules go, if you want to sell in the EU you need to follow them. If you sell just in the USA you do not. Part of the worry about the EU rules though is that the USA may follow with something similar. Also, if the EU outright bans things, the ingredients will become difficult to get.

  3. Spiced citrus vetiver sounds delightful. As to the IFRA regulations, I don’t know what to think. Victoria did a great job answering FAQ’s and I already expressed my feelings there, but I am greatly saddened by the way the softer side of life continues to be diminished. In the continuous onslaught of horrible events, being able to enjoy things like perfume, music, the feeding of our souls through the appreciation of Beauty (a need as old as time) becomes more important than ever. Thank you for the work you do, creating such beautiful scents. I hope you will be able to continue to do so.

    1. Thanks, rosarita. Seems to be a time of change right now for the fragrance industry, and I hope things sort themselves out in a good way. And I agree about needing sources of beauty and art in life, along with family and all the things that bring us joy.

  4. Happy Holidays, Laurie! Perfect timing on Cocoa Sandalwood for me as january is exactly when I planned on purchasing!
    agreed with rosarita.. there is so much in life for which we can be grateful for and I believe that all the rest will “sort themselves out” as you put it. I have no doubt that you will be able to continue your art, Laurie, despite the changes in the industry (you are the master at re-formulations and keeping as true to original as possible).

    Wishing you the best of holidays and a very happy, healthy and auspicious new year !


    PS and hopefully my little “project” will get posted soon !!!!

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